Whereas the choice is greatest between noon and 2pm, I want going to the canteen-like Felice just below our flat at about 3.30pm, as a result of, after the push of lunch, even the chairs appear to sit down again and sigh with aid. And since there may be much less to select from, which is nice, as a result of I’m busy, hungry and don’t need to suppose; the counter tells me. Additionally, by mid-afternoon, the final of the vegetable dishes they accomplish that nicely – the several-inches-deep aubergine parmigiana, the mashed potato cake, the flat inexperienced beans stewed in tomato, and little cubes of roast potato with rosemary – have been sitting some time, resting, soaking. And now that scorching days are right here once more, the resting is even higher for vegetable dishes lengthy out of the oven however removed from chilly, and their flavours are the higher for it.
4 o’clock, nonetheless, was too late, and I watched the final slice of parmigiana go residence in an aluminium field with a person in a Weapons N’ Roses cap with a guitar strapped to his again. Which, after all, made me resent him and his parmigiana extra. So, after a rice ball and a potato croquette with a little bit of cheese within the center, I purchased basil, tomatoes and mozzarella, which I pulled out of its plastic bag of cloudy liquid and placed on a plate within the fridge, so it will drain in a single day, prepared for the subsequent day.
It was solely once I’d bought all the things out the subsequent morning – the plate of drained mozzarella, the parmesan, the tomatoes for the sauce and the basil – that I realised I had forgotten the principal ingredient: the bloody aubergine. It was already scorching, and the concept of going out once more after which frying slice after slice of egged aubergine felt lower than interesting. However I did have courgettes, and parmigiana is solely a layered, baked factor … which brings me to this week’s recipe. Might they work? And will they work with out pre-frying, or would they launch a whole lot of water as they baked and set the entire thing afloat?
The reply is: sure, they work! And, sure, they do launch a considerable amount of liquid. Which is why this week’s recipe is an train in blotting and tilting. Blotting the skinny strips of courgette, blotting the already-drained mozzarella, after which, midway by means of cooking, pulling the tin out of the oven and tilting it barely to ladle away among the extra liquid. However, in return, it’s the most pleasant bake, with the courgettes stewed and softened within the liquor earlier than being baked right into a agency slice with tomato and two kinds of cheese.
The resting interval is much more very important than with aubergine parmigiana, I feel, to offer the remaining juices and sauce time to be absorbed, and the mozzarella and parmesan to chill, so the cheese grouts and binds all the things collectively. Take a lead from Felice – within the oven at 11am and out by 11.45, to be eaten at 2pm. Though it’s even higher at 3.30pm, with a beer on the desk close to the window.
Courgette, mozzarella and parmesan layered bake
Serves 4-6
600g courgettes
Salt
500g mozzarella, drained in a single day after which blotted
Olive oil
300ml tomato passata, or thick tomato sauce
100g parmesan, grated
An enormous handful of basil leaves
Utilizing a mandoline or a potato peeler, lower the courgettes into skinny strips – don’t fear if they aren’t good. Pat dry with kitchen towel and sprinkle with salt. Rip the mozzarella into small, scraggy items, and blot them dry.
Rub a deep-sided steel tin or small baking dish with oil, then use a 3rd of courgettes to make a base layer, arranging the items neatly, however not worrying an excessive amount of. Cowl with a 3rd of the sauce, a 3rd of the cheese, half the mozzarella and a handful of basil leaves. Repeat the layers of courgette, sauce, parmesan and the remaining mozzarella and basil, then end with a remaining layer every of courgette, sauce and the remaining parmesan.
Bake at 190C (170C fan)/375F/fuel 5 for 20 minutes, then take away from the oven and tip away or ladle off among the extra liquid. Return the tin to the oven and bake for an additional 20 minutes, or till the highest darkish and golden.
Go away to relaxation for at the very least an hour earlier than serving in slices with bread and salad.
